Dendrobium nobile or Dendrobium noble - an ornamental plant from the orchid family. In vivo occurs in the mountain forests of South and Southeast Asia, mainly in India, Indonesia, China and Thailand. Florists appreciate him for the elegant beauty and exquisite aroma of flowers.
Description of dendrobium nobile
The dendrobium bush grows to 60 cm, is a pseudobulb (a thick fleshy stalk containing a large supply of water and nutrients) with large elongated leaves in the upper part. Between them along the entire length of the stem are flower stalks. The flowers are usually large and bright, white or various shades of pink, red and purple.
Care for orchid dendrobium nobile at home
When compared with other indoor orchids, this species is distinguished by the relative ease of care and maintenance of the house, but still remains a very capricious plant. Its flowering occurs only with the strict observance of all the rules.
| Demand | Favorable conditions | Unfavourable conditions |
| A place | Window sill on the southeast or southwest side. Well ventilated areas. | Northern windows. Dark corners. Cold air currents. |
| Lighting | Bright stray light 10-12 hours a day. The use of phytolamps during short daylight hours. | Direct sunlight (lead to burns). Lack of daylight. Changing the direction of lighting (during flowering leads to the fall of peduncles). |
| Temperature | The difference between day and night air temperatures.
| Any deviations from the specified temperature. |
| Humidity | Not lower than 60%. Frequent spraying. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth up to 3 times a day. | Content near radiators. The ingress of large drops of water on the buds and leaf sinuses. |
Landing
All orchids painfully transfer the transplant, so it should be done no more than once every three years, and only if you can not do without it.
The reason may be:
- plant disease;
- lack of space in the pot;
- damage to the substrate (salinization or excessive density).
Pot selection
The main thing is to provide the roots of the dendrobium with the correct air exchange. Ceramic pots have such properties. The bottom must have drainage holes. There are also holes in the walls.
The size of the new pot should not be much larger than the previous one - a difference of two centimeters is enough. When growing orchids in a too spacious container, there is a risk of soil acidification.
Before planting, prepare the pot:
- disinfect by placing in the oven for 2 hours at 200 ° C;
- allow to cool;
- Soak for a day in clean water so that it is saturated with moisture.
The soil
The substrate used to grow orchids is very different from land mixtures for other indoor plants. The roots need air access, so the soil should be porous and light.
Its main component is crushed pine bark. Charcoal, sphagnum moss and broken coconut or walnut shells are also added to the mixture.
It should be borne in mind that the less light in the room, the more the plant needs soil friability. To increase it, you can mix foam pieces into the substrate.
Step Transplant
A transplant is recommended in the spring, after a flowering period. Algorithm:
- A pot of orchid is soaked in water.
- The roots of the plant are extracted from it and completely cleaned from the ground.
- Damaged sections of the roots are removed, the places of the slices are treated with crushed activated carbon and dried.
- A thick layer of drainage is poured into the pot, a substrate of 2-3 cm is laid on top.
- The roots are placed in the center of the pot, add the remainder of the substrate to the level at which the soil was in the previous pot.
- Establish a support to which the stem is tied.
- For the next two to three days, the orchid is placed in a non-hot (about + 20 ° C) shaded place.
- Watered only on the third or fourth day, after the relative adaptation of the plant.
Proper watering and top dressing
The dendrobium has four seasonal stages every year, and for optimal care you need to consider them.
| Stage | Watering | Top dressing |
| Active vegetation | Spend once or twice a week in the morning. At the same time, weather conditions outside the window are taken into account and the state of the upper layer of the substrate in the pot is monitored - if it is wet, watering is not needed. After sure, remove excess water from the pan. | At every second watering, specialized nitrogen fertilizers for orchids are added. |
| Peduncle formation | Use liquid potash and phosphorus. You can connect spraying with a solution of succinic acid (1 tab. Per 500 ml of water). | |
| Bloom | Reduce the frequency to preserve flower stalks longer. | |
| Rest period | After the orchid has faded, cut to once every two weeks. The frequency of spraying does not change. | Do not use. |
Breeding
Dendrobium nobile is a plant that can be propagated easily and in various ways. Of these, flower growers practice three main ones: children, cuttings and dividing the bush.
Kids
The easiest and most reliable way. Children are lateral processes, sometimes formed from pseudobulbs. To get a new plant, just wait until the roots of one of them reach 5 cm in length. After that, the baby can be separated and planted in a separate pot.
Cuttings
To harvest the cuttings you will need an old pseudobulb - the one that dropped the leaves. It is cut and divided into cuttings so that each has two or three "sleeping" kidneys.
Ready cuttings are placed in a container with wet moss, covered with a film or glass and exposed in a bright and warm (about +22 ° C) place for several weeks. From time to time it is necessary to moisten the moss, and to air the greenhouse. Seedlings are ready for transplanting into individual pots when their roots grow to 5 cm.
Bush division
An adult bush with several stems is suitable. The bottom line is the separation of one of them and landing in another pot.
You should make sure that on the selected shoot there are both old bulbs and new arrows, and the roots are of sufficient length.
Fault points must be treated with activated carbon. Further care is not different from that required by an adult plant.
Errors in the care of the dendrobium nobile orchid and their elimination
Inexperienced gardeners sometimes make a number of mistakes that lead to illness or even death of an orchid:
- Place the plant in direct sunlight immediately after spraying. As a result, burns form on the leaves.
- Spray foliage at a room temperature below +20 ° C. This leads to the appearance of rot.
- After spraying do not remove excess water from the axils of the leaves. They begin to rot at the base.
- Do not provide enough light. An orchid in such conditions does not bloom.
- Do not reduce the temperature of the content and the frequency of watering during the dormant period. Flowering does not occur.
Diseases, pests and their control
Most often, diseases and pest attacks can be avoided if you properly care for the orchid and provide it with all the necessary conditions. If the problem nevertheless made itself felt, it is necessary to eliminate it as soon as possible so that the plant does not die.
| Symptoms on the leaves and other parts of the plant | Cause | Treatment | Recommended Drugs |
| Fade and become covered with dark dry spots with yellow edges. | Fungus. | Remove damaged areas. Treat the sections with activated carbon, and the entire plant with a one percent solution of an antifungal drug. Stop watering for five days. All next month add potassium permanganate to every second watering. |
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| The smell of rot appears, mold on the substrate and dark wet spots on the roots, later on the leaves. | Root rot. | Transplant the plant by removing the damaged areas and holding the roots in a five percent solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. Before planting, sterilize the pot, and completely change the substrate by adding trichodermin or a similar additive. Over the next few months, add 0.5% fungicide to the water for irrigation. |
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| Wet brown spots. | Brown rot. | Cut off the affected leaves, treat the wounds. Pour and spray with a one percent solution of fungicide. Spray monthly with a 0.5% copper sulfate solution. |
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| Covered with white powder, dry and fall off, the same thing happens with buds. | Powdery Mildew | Wash off plaque with soapy water. The next month to spray weekly with a solution of colloidal sulfur or fungicide. |
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| Young leaves, stems and buds accumulate small green or brown insects. | Aphid. | Wash off insects with water. Spray several times a day with onion, garlic, tobacco, pepper or herbal infusion. In severe cases, apply insecticides weekly for a month. |
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| Turn yellow from the inside, covered with light lines, the buds are twisted. | Thrips. | Spray with soapy water. Treat with insecticides. Repeat the treatment one or two more times with a weekly interval. |
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| A thin cobweb appears, and small black specks appear on the back of the leaves. | Spider mite. | Treat with alcohol infusion, rinse with water after 15 minutes. Pour and spray with plenty of water, cover tightly with a transparent bag for two to three days. In severe cases, organize a monthly course of treatment with insecticidal drugs. |
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| Brown tubercles form. | Shield. | Treat pests with alcohol, vinegar or kerosene and after a few hours remove from the surface of the leaves. Rinse the leaves with water and treat with the drug, repeat the treatment weekly for a month. |
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| On the reverse side they are covered with white coating, white fluffy formations appear in the leaf sinuses. | Mealybug. | Treat the leaves with a soap-alcohol solution. Rinse with water after half an hour. Use drugs two or three times every ten days. |
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